Outer Banks Oyster Bar Hopping

About 20 years ago, someone had the bright idea that the best way to harvest Outer Banks oysters was to float a dredge or two out in the sound, scoop as much mud off the bottom as possible and sift everything out but the oysters. That worked spectacularly well for that year, but then we experienced a loss of oysters for several years until state agencies and a number of local volunteers moved forward to rebuild the stripped Outer Banks oyster reefs. 

Finally, oysters are back in Outer Banks waters, and the obvious result is a sudden resurgence of local oyster bars. We started getting noticeable harvest levels two to three years ago and now they are once again on local menus and featured in area raw bars. 

There are a few old standby oyster bars, including Kelly’s Tavern in Nags Head, which has been serving up oysters since the day it opened. Awful Arthurs in Kill Devil Hills, has served oysters raw, steamed or just about any way you want them since 1984, and Mulligans in Nags Head has always had a raw bar. What suddenly seems to be happening, is a resurgence or maybe emergence, of new Outer Banks oyster bars. 

It’s not surprising that the innovative guys at Coastal Provisions decided to renovate an entire side of their Southern Shores Crossing location and create a full-on oyster bar. Dan and Scott have some of the most creative food ideas around, and they have never been afraid to take a chance. What sets this venture apart is that it’s the only “true” oyster tasting bar around. Featuring six oysters from different locations . . . and they have great beer to go with oysters. 

On the Bypass, about a mile or so south of Coastal Provisions, Ronnie Merrell and Lee Hux took over what had been Hooters and then Pete’s Pourhouse, and opened BK Shuckers in May of 2013. The new owners have created a much more family friendly environment than in the past. The restaurant features a raw bar, but long term plans call for a tasting bar concept, similar to what Coastal Provisions offers. 

Still in Kitty Hawk, but just a way down the road is I Got Your Crabs. This restaurant opened about a year ago, and it’s unique because Hunter Stuart is a commercial fisherman in Currituck. He has been crabbing and fishing for as long as he can remember, and it does make a difference. The guy knows fresh! 

I may have missed two or three places, but for oyster lovers, this will certainly get you started on a great evening of oyster bar hopping.

Outer Banks Community Parks

It’s easy to talk about the variety of recreation available on the Outer Banks. The list of obvious activities include the beach, our ocean and sounds, hiking, shopping … it’s a list that seems endless, and a good reason why we love living here and vacationers return year after year. 

Aside from the obvious, there are also special little things that make this such a special place. So, I thought it would be interesting to write a blog series highlighting some of these little things that greatly add to Outer Banks enjoyment, the first being about our wonderful community parks. 

The first entry isn’t a park at all, but it is designed around a park and a beautiful town green. The Duck Boardwalk is the most beautiful soundside walkway on the Outer Banks. It’s about a mile in length and provides amazing panoramic views. Along the way, there are plenty of places to stop for coffee and snacks and it is ideal for outing from family excursions to a romantic stroll. 

The Town of Southern Shores has some great little parks but they are all administered by the civic associations and are considered private property. 

If there is a rating system for small, friendly parks, the town of Kitty Hawk would rank high for their three town parks, all in fairly close proximity. In fairness to other towns, one of these parks is actually a county facility. The Woods Road goes through the heart of Kitty Hawk Woods, and the Paul Pruitt Park is located at the beginning of the road, just past the intersection of US 158 (The Bypass).

Located just past the Dominion Power offices, this park is fenced, provides parking and is surrounded by shade trees, making it perfect for youngsters.

About 1-1/2 to 2 miles up the Woods Road, is Sandy Run Park. This is an absolute gem of a little park, providing a boardwalk and very well marked dirt path loop around a small pond and wetlands. Exquisitely beautiful, the path is a little less than half a mile and is suitable for all members of the family. 

Kitty Hawk Park, which is a part of Dare County Parks and Recreation, is located on Kitty Hawk Road. Turn left at the end of the Woods Road and the park is on the left about a half mile down. It has a great skateboard bowl, created by local designer Andy Duck, a dog park, picnic tables and a trail that loops around the park. On good weather days, the bowl is packed with kids. 

One of the best children’s parks around is Hayman Park in Kill Devil Hills. It has swing sets and a jungle gym that will keep kids occupied for hours (okay, maybe minutes), wide open space for running and a picnic table shaded by a beautiful live oak. Located on West Hayman Boulevard, the turn for the street is between the Pittsburgh Paint store and the Bingo sign on the Bypass. 

The Nags Head Town Park qualifies because it’s off the beaten path, and it’s a wonderful facility. Located at the end of Health Center Drive (turn at the Ace Hardware), this park is too big to be called small. It has everything from grills and covered picnic tables, to swings and a large open field designed for pick-up games. There are even a couple of easily navigated hiking trails, making it ideal for family fun and family gathering. 

The other Nags Head park that gets special notice is Whalebone Park, located across from Jennette’s Pier. It’s designed as a children’s play park, but there’s not much shade, so slather on the sunscreen. This is a great place to go when the kids are tired of the sand. 

This is just a sampling of the town parks throughout the Outer Banks, so please feel free to explore. When it comes to parks, they all have unique qualities and something special to offer residents and visitors.

Best Outer Banks Coffee Shops

Autumn is here, temperatures are dropping, the wind is picking up, which makes it the perfect time to write about Outer Banks coffee shops. I’m talking about the real thing here, those places filled with the sound of compressed steam escaping from an espresso machine that fills the air with the wonderful rich aroma of freshly brewed coffee.

There are a surprising number of coffee shops on the OuterBanks, and almost all of them are locally owned. Since Starbucks arrived at The Marketplace in Southern Shores, a lot of attention was naturally drawn to them. They certainly deserve a special mention, since they serve great coffee and create a good place to meet on that end of the Beach. Yet, the locally owned shops are turning out some really great product, and I have no problem recommending any of those I visited. In order to keep these shops organized, I’ll start north, in Corolla, and head south.

Outer Banks Coffee Company roasts their coffee, and as a result, every cup of coffee served has a full bodied fresh flavor. There’s not much seating inside, but they also have outdoor seating for good weather days. The shop is located on Ocean Trail, in the strip of stores in front of the Food Lion Shopping Center. 

The Town of Duck doesn’t have a large permanent population, but it does have two of the best coffee shops on the Outer Banks. Housed in what was once a hunting lodge, Duck’s Cottage is really half coffee shop and half book store. Located in its own building on the south end of the Waterfront Shops, there’s a comfortable sitting area inside and a bit more seating on the porch. Just south and on the opposite side of the road, is Sweet T’s, which offers more great coffee. It may have the most pleasant outdoor seating area of any Outer Banks café, a large porch that’s shaded by trees sitting back off the road a bit, which lends itself to a relaxing cup of cappuccino. 

Further sound down the highway, you’ll find the Outer Bean Seaside Gourmet and The Good Life Gourmet, both creating a center for the espresso world in Kitty Hawk. The Good Life is a coffee shop, bakery and restaurant, and their selection of baked goods is one of the largest around. It also has a large seating area, great for meeting friends or doing business. Outer Bean Seaside Gourmet in the Dunes Shoppes was formerly Southern Bean. When Necla Rader took it over, she merged with Seaside Gourmet, knocked the wall out between the two businesses and created a much more open and inviting cafe. Offering great food and very friendly service, I give a strong recommendation for this one.

If there is a population center on the Outer Banks, it is Kill Devil Hills, but for some reason there is only one coffee shop in town–at least as far as I can tell. Front Porch Cafe is as close to a chain as exists on the Outer Banks. There are three locations in Kill Devil Hills, Nags Head and Manteo. The one in Kill Devil Hills is the smallest, and it’s attached to a pottery glazing studio, so bring the kids and have some fun. All three cafes have plenty of seating, the company roasts their own coffee, and it is good coffee. Kill Devil Hill Front Porch Cafe is at the MP6 Shopping Center. The Nags Head café is in the Food Lion Shopping Plaza, just past the Kill Devil town line. The Manteo shop is on the corner of Route 64 just past the McDonald’s. 

In addition to Front Porch Cafe, Nags Head has two other coffee shops. Morning View Coffee is a traditional coffee shop with comfortable seating, small tables and a wonderful eclectic feel. Look for it in the same strip mall that has Forbes Candies, about MP 11 on the Bypass. Wave riders is part deli (good sandwiches) and part coffee shop, but when it comes to coffee, it’s the real thing. Check them out at MP 15.5 on the Bypass. They do close at 3:00, so don’t look for evening coffee. 

Finally, in the heart of Manteo, The Coffee House is about as funky and traditional as it gets. It’s across the street from the old Courthouse, now the Dare County Arts Council. Just go up some wooden stairs and to the end of a boardwalk. They have great coffee, very good pastries and friendly service.

Outer Banks Birding

As the last days of summer give way to the beauty of autumn, the skies fill with thousands upon thousands of waterfowl making their winter migration to the sounds and estuaries surrounding the Outer Banks. It is a cycle that’s as old as time, and as snow geese spread their wings to break their descent into the water and hundreds of blue petes raft in the waters of the Currituck Sound, the air is filled with the beautiful cacophony of their calls.

The Outer Banks has always been known as a place of autumn abundance. During the 19th and into the mid-20th century, it was considered the premier East Coast destination for hunting migratory waterfowl. The hunting remains excellent and duck blinds still dot the sounds, but these days more and more people “hunt” our spectacular water fowl using binoculars and a camera.

Every season offers birdwatchers something special on the Outer Banks, but by far the fall season may be the most spectacular. It is not possible to list every bird that calls Eastern North Carolina their home during the fall and winter months. For those who want this information, Mackay Island on Knotts Island and Pea Island National Wildlife Refuge on Hatteras island, have excellent online resources.

Pea Island National Wildlife Refuge is located at the north end of Hatteras Island and the choices for bird watching vary between very good and excellent. One of the best places to start is the Visitor’s Center, located about 3-1/2 to 4 miles south of Oregon Inlet. There are two impoundment ponds on the premises, remnants of the heyday of hunting on the Outer Banks, and the trail that loops around them offers an astonishing variety of wildlife. 

If Pea Island is the best known Outer Banks location for bird sighting, a wonderful Manteo site is probably the least well known. Roanoke Island Marsh Game Land is about a third of a mile past the Wanchese turnoff. Heading toward Wanchese there is a small parking area on the left with a very short loop trail overlooking the Roanoke Sound marsh. This is a great area to view migrating birds in their seasonal habitat. As an aside note, Wanchese is a wonderful little fishing village that’s worth exploring. 

An honorable mention for Roanoke Island birding goes out to the Elizabethan Gardens, located on the way out of town. Not a lot of waterfowl there, but almost every other species of bird imaginable is on the premise and sections of the gardens are always in bloom. 

When the Town of Duck built their boardwalk, it was immediately known as one of the most beautiful sound side walks on the Outer Banks. With almost a mile of elevated walkways over the waters of the sound and viewing platforms along the way, it is also a fantastic place to check out the local bird populations. 

Currituck County bills itself as the “Sportsman’s Paradise”, and during the heyday of the hunt club era it was definitely the place to go. Within this county, there are two sites on the Outer Banks worth checking out. 

At the north end of the Town of Duck, just across from the Sanderling Inn, there is a soundfront parking lot. On the south end of the path, there is a dirt path that once was the dirt road leading to Corolla. The trail is wide, very easy to walk and has two observation platforms that have panoramic views overlooking the Currituck Sound. This is a great location for birding on the northern beachesHeading north, almost to the four-wheel drive area of Carova, there is a very sharp bend in the road towards the right that has a small parking lot. At this location, there is a boardwalk that offers a spectacular trek through a maritime forest and ends at a viewing platform with a great overview of the northern part of the Currituck Sound. From this private location, it’s most likely that birders will be in for a memorable experience. 

With so many private places to wander on the Outer Banks, there are bound to be lots of great bird watching locations that I’m not mentioning. If you’re an avid birder, I’d just say to keep your binoculars and camera within reach. You never know when the perfect birding opportunity takes flight.

Life on the Outer Banks

Most every topic imaginable gets covered about the Outer Banks except the one that might be the most important, “What is it like to live on the Outer Banks?” There is a certain amount of logic to discussing this question, since ours is an economy dominated by tourism, so folks come down for a short visit and then head home. Since it’s a question that comes up consistently, maybe this is a good time to give my personal overview.

First of all, for those people asking about our schools, or whether we even have schools, the answer is, “Yes, we have an excellent school system.” Dare County Schools, which comprise most of the Outer Banks, are amongst the best in the state. First Flight High School in Kill Devil Hills and Manteo High School were recently ranked in the top 10% of high schools in the nation by two national publications.

 

Corolla is a part of Currituck County, and although the county schools are not quite as highly rated as Dare County, their school system is also quite good. Particularly noteworthy is Waterside Charter School in Corolla. This K-6 school was started to keep primary school kids from spending 2-3 hours a day on a school bus to arrive to and depart from their mainland schools. This school is an excellent example of what can go right with the charter school concept.

When stuck in summer traffic with 150,000 cars, including 375,000 new visitors per week, it may be hard to imagine our simpler way of life. We have several incorporated towns; Duck, Southern Shores, Kitty Hawk, Kill Devil Hills, Nags Head and Manteo. For most, that may be a good indicator of where you live, but our real identity is within the community called the Outer Banks. 

It’s true that once our guests depart, things do slow down considerably, but they certainly don’t stop. Although many local events are designed for our visitors, a majority of our off season gatherings are what makes small town America so wonderful.

 For example, The Dare County Arts Council just finished up their Artrageous celebration, which is about blending the kids of our communities with art. During the holidays, there are numerous parades and tree lightings. Duck celebrations are completely unique and worth exploring. And, for those looking for an old time flavor, Manteo events appear as if they have come straight from a Currier & Ives print. 

Like most small communities, we become friends with our neighbors and friendly with most everyone else. One remarkable trait of the Outer Banks is how that strong sense of community remains. There is a palpable feeling of “we are in this together,” so when a neighbor is in need, the outpouring of support is awe inspiring. That definitely doesn’t mean we march in lock step with one another. Most of us have pretty strong views on topics ranging from politics to religion. It’s just that we haven’t lost that strong understanding of how important each individual is to the overall community.